#Tapedeck graphic series
#Tapedeck graphic crack

The felt pressure pad that contacts the magnetic tape eventually comes away or disintegrates. European buyers/owners of second-hand cassettes should be particularly wary of pre-recorded tapes produced by EMI in the 1980's with a ribbed shell. If none of this works, try a donor shell - but be aware that even if the shell is replaced, you may find that the tape has become stretched and is unusable.

#Tapedeck graphic crack

(Loosening the screws, or twisting the shell of a welded tape until a crack is heard, may help by giving the tape more room.) If this does not work, open the shell and try replacing the 'foils' on each side with some of different design from a donor cassette. To address such problems, first slap the cassette on a flat surface several times and then rewind the tape all the way through without pause, several times if necessary. In extreme cases, a loud screeching sound may also be heard coming from the cassette itself and also via the playback head, especially towards the end of the tape. Another cause is heat damage to the shell. This is often caused by repeated winding/rewinding to selected portions of tape without letting the tape play through an entire side. The tape runs unevenly inside the shell, causing speed variations and/or jamming during playback or rewinding.

Other common problems with cassette tapes are: The spools on which the tape is wound are often slotted so that the end of the tape may be freed from one spool and secured to a new spool. If it doesn't appear to be needed, don't bother. On reassembly, a small amount of polystyrene cement (the kind used in assembling model aircraft kits) can be used along the edges and/or the internal lugs to hold the shell together. Care must be taken not to gouge or damage the reels. Shells that are glued together can be opened by first twisting the shell until a 'crack' is heard (or until it becomes clear that it isn't going to give), then inserting a knife blade in the seam between the halves of the cassette shell, working round the edge.

Care should be taken to ensure that the tape follows the correct path through the cassette before reassembly, and that all of the small parts are in their proper places. It may be helpful to practice the procedure on the latter first. Most prerecorded compact cassettes are glued or welded, but the vast majority of blank tapes are held together by four or five small screws so that they may be disassembled and reassembled easily. A crude repair can even be performed on a severed tape by carefully aligning and reattaching the strand ends against a backing of special mylar splicing tape (normal adhesive tape should never be used on audio recording tape because the adhesive will 'bleed' over time), then trimming excess on either side with scissors or a precision knife, enabling a basic playback such as for dubbing out to another recording device. 'Eaten' tapes as described above can in many cases also be rescued after running the tapes' back side over a rounded surface such as a pen to re-flatten it as best as possible. This need not spell the end of a valuable recording: one can extract the tape from the shell of its cartridge and transplant it into a new cartridge. I have used most of the repair techniques are one time or another.Ĭassettes contain moving parts such as rollers which can become worn, leading to jamming or breakage of the magnetic tape itself.

#Tapedeck graphic series

Since 2018 Tony has worked with Hard Rock hotel chain and more recently will be releasing a series of Prodigy oversized badges after the band contacted him in the summer of 2020.Here are some cassette tape repair techniques that are listed in Wikipedia. In 2018, Tony worked with French graffiti artist Invader and produced 10 giant pin badges using the artists designs for his month long LA exhibition 'Into the white cube’. After nearly 9 months of research and fabricating countless prototypes, Tony painted his first badge in early 2017 and now sells his badges in galleries in the UK and the United States.Īll Tonys badge design’s are taken from actual pins from the 1970’s to the 1980’s with a heavy influence on the punk scene, painting a number of badges from designs manufactured by Better Badges from the years 1976-84. He put the two together and came up with the idea of painting and forming Giant 3D pin badges from designs he already had in his collection. At the same time, he was collecting vintage punk badges from the mid to late 1970’s. In the early part of 2016 Tony craved to design and paint a piece of artwork that was eye catching, tactile and totally different.